Manzoor Jaffery, Formulator for Immunocologie Skincare
Meet the Bio-Fermentation Expert
Manzoor Jaffery, chairman and chief executive officer of innovative luxury skincare brand, Immuncologie, has more than 25 years experience in skincare formulating. A multi-patent holder, he is a trailblazer in developing effective and innovative formulations to support the skin and help fight the signs of aging. He began his professional career as a pharmacist before turning full time to creating skincare products. An expert in manufacturing, Mr. Jaffery has developed product lines for well known prestige brands, dermatologists and spas around the world. Immunocologie, a seven product line, is currently sold at select high-end beauty retailers including Clyde’s in New York City.
Tell us a bit about your background.
I am a New York state-licensed pharmacist and a chemist, and I’ve been in the cosmetics industry for over 25 years. I’m originally from Pakistan, where I got a Masters Degree in Pharmaceutical Chemistry. In addition to conceiving of and developing the Immunocologie line, I hold patents for Glycolic Acid and all Fruit Acids for skincare products.
The Immunocologie product line is based on the proprietary Bioferm process. What is that exactly and how does it benefit the skin?
Bioferm is the exclusive bio-fermentation process used to prepare our products; the bio-fermentation of products allows them to work with the Langerhans Cells, which act as the immune system of the skin. The Langerhans Cells are accustomed to receiving their nutrition in a digested form from the interior of the body, so generally, substances that try to enter the skin from the outside (skincare products, for example) are viewed as enemies. The Bioferm process pre-digests the ingredients, making them recognizable as nutrients to the Langerhans Cells and causing them to be more effective more quickly. Because they are being assimilated into the cells of the skin on a molecular level, the products are good for any skin type. Immunocologie products have numerous benefits for the skin, from antioxidant action and removal of pollution to plumping and brightening.
Where did you get the inspiration to develop Bioferm?
My initial inspiration came from a 1939 paper by Albert Szent-Gyorgyi, the scientist who won a Nobel Prize for the discovery of Vitamin C. With “On Oxidation, Fermentation, Vitamins, Health, and Disease” he became a pioneer in applications of fermentation, and I eventually built on his thoughts. I was working with crushed grapes, and I developed an idea to ferment other herbs like you would ferment grapes—that is how the idea for Immunocologie was born.
How many products are in the Immunocologie lineup? Is there a star product?
There are seven different products in the Immunocologie line, but we are in the midst of adding more. My star product is definitely the Treatment Crème, which is a rich but lightweight formula that delivers immediate and lasting hydration, provides essential nutrition to skin cells, and supports the natural immune barrier function of the cutaneous tissue. Many people have had amazing results with that product in terms of anti-aging benefits and improvement in skin tone.
As a formulator, can you suggest guidelines for choosing skincare products?
My general guidelines would be choosing a treatment for plumping lines, hydrating the skin, evening out skin tone and helping to fade past sun damage.
Specifically, wash face with a gentle face wash and follow with Immunocologie Treatment Crème. Those with aging skin should apply Immunocologie Line Smoothing Treatment Serum before the crème to smooth out wrinkles.
In the evening, wash face with a gentle face wash and use Immunocologie Treatment Crème as a night cream. This is a simple and effective routine.
Immunocologie products have some pretty unique ingredients. Can you tell us about some of them?
One of the most unique ingredients that we use is Elk Antler Velvet (EAV), which comes from the soft, highly vascularized layer of skin that covers and protects the antlers of elk. Elk shed this layer every summer, and it is a powerful cell growth factor that has anti-inflammatory properties. Another really interesting ingredient is marine phytoplankton, which is a powerful immuno-stimulant that has been proven to regenerate damaged and aging skin by accelerating and sustaining collagen production in human fibroblasts.
Sometimes, the combination of ingredients is as interesting and unique as the ingredients themselves. For instance, the Immunocologie Line Smoothing Treatment Serum is the first skincare product with a powerful cocktail of one growth factor (Basilium, a basil extract) and three natural plant stem cells (Alpine Rose, Apple Pectin and Bamboo) to stimulate new cell duplication.
However, the list of ingredients for Immunocologie products is not stagnant; we are constantly updating our products to incorporate the best available ingredients and technologies.