Photo Credit: Jean-Charles De Castelbajac
Paris Fashion Week, fall 2013, was a complete wow! The clothes were big, wide, loud, and brash with clashing fabrics and silk, wood, brocade, leather, and organza. So was the beauty blah in comparison? Far from it. Case in point: how do you re-invent lipstick? You play with the application as seen at the Jean-Charles De Castelbajac show, where the top lip only was painted a bright matte orange to create contrast with the predominantly monochrome collection and to balance the soft brows. Clever.
Christian Dior was pretty in pink on the lips, achieved with Dior Contour Lip Pencil #001 around the lips that were cleaned up with Nude concealer for a really sharp line. The darling lip color, Rouge Dior #775, will be out in September, but if you want to be ahead of the curve, check out Rouge Dior Star Fuschia #766, the closest shade in the current palette. Eyes had a gentle hue of blue, a brave exception to many eyes sporting smoky or nude shades. It looked sweet without being sickly and was a fabulous contrast to the myriad of textures employed by Raf Simons on the runway.
But trust Vivienne Westwood to buck the trend—with bright green eyeshadow. She is a risk-taker and hopefully by September we will see other makeup artists collaborating with designers that are brave enough to use color and ditch the smoky eye.
Now, hands up, who doesn’t want sharp cheekbones? This season, the girls possessed cheekbones as sharp as a marble countertop. Okay, so shading can achieve a similar look but a lot has to do with the shape of the face–and your parentage (sorry about that but we can’t all be models). But before your reach for that dusty Dr. Atkins diet book, this wasn’t heroin chic. It was playful.
As the Paris autumn/winter shows developed, so did the hair. Some designers still stuck with the Jennifer Aniston center part, wavy look as seen for the past five years…. Love la Aniston, but on some level, she must regret how “The Rachel” turned her into “Poster Hair Girl.”
This season, some hung on but most hairdressers traded-in “The Rachel” for an imaginative leap into glossy, backcombed chignons and up-dos (see Dior, Chloe, and Celine collections among others). Down-dos were marked by strong parts, polished, simple, and straight (see Vanessa Bruno, Sacai, Akris). A few wig-come-cloche hats that hugged the models heads were seen at Givenchy and Stella McCartney—very fun and a great complement to the clothes.
But it was the cotton candy textured, bleached hair, contrasting with dark roots, which stole the show at Haider Ackermann. It felt like the designers got their hair on—so to speak—with huge textured bleach blonde hair at Junya Watanabe that contrasted with a strong coral lip. So get out the mousse—volume is back.
Paris was all about mixing up fabric for the body. As for the head, it was freaky hair, some glimpses of Pantone shades through nude, and adventures with lipstick. Unlikely combinations all around—these were the most imaginative looks all season. Personally, forget the summer. I can’t wait to get my fall on.