NYFW – SMILEY NAILS AND SMASHING LIPS
Many eyes were on the clothes. But at BITB, we were all about what was above the black roll-neck sweaters of Michael Kors and below the hats of Oscar de la Renta.
However, there seems to have been an unprecedented amount of attention to nails; and although this season had swaths of nude, color is back for Fall 2013, and with a well-needed dose of fun.
At Assembly, Color Club designed neon yellow nails spotted with emojis. “The collection is all about New York and how now work and play are mixed up together,” explained nail lead Simcha Whitehall. “Everyone uses emojis, they are great shorthand and New York is all about speed. We also created black and white cookie nails.” Not only quintessential New York, “it’s hard to wear white by itself but black and white works with every skin-tone.”
Lancôme’s nails at Monika Chiang were adventurous, sporting an asymmetrical French manicure in dark red and black (Lancôme Vernis in Love in Madame Tulipe and Noir Caviar) that was blinged up with gold tips and attached gold rings on the ring finger. Even more adventurous was the Lancôme makeup including a lace detail at the side of the eyes complete with a V of green in the corner. Finished with a creamy matte pink lipstick, the classic base and lips—with such adventure on the eyes—this was one of our favorite looks from the runway.
At William Okpo, Janell Geason, global artistic director for Aveda Make-up was creating Frieda Kahlo meets Brooke Shields eyebrows. Our question: was she using eyebrow extensions? “No, the idea was to mimic hair brushed-through sporadically and flicked with eyeliner,” Janell told me, both of us shouting above the noise of the set being drilled together. Although the makeup was uniform, “our idea was for the girls to look like themselves, to embrace who they are. Free love!” The lip was delicious and strong, balancing out the eyebrows with a mash-up of Aveda Nourish-Mint Smoothing Lip Color in Cana and Melochia Bloom. We left her brushing on eyebrows, totally unfazed and laughing with the models over the crashing and booming.
Another new beauty crush? Laurent of Privé who created one of the most extraordinary but beautiful looks again at William Okpo. Whilst everyone was banging on about texture (whatever that really means…), Laurent had created the new pom-pom look. “We wanted to create real texture so we crimped the hair, in some cases had to add in ‘nasty’ synthetic hair for volume, then we back-combed and molded into huge pom-poms with lots of Privé hairspray.” Wow, we said conspiratorially, that must be very time consuming? “Believe it or not, it’s easy to do, it takes about thirty minutes.” Don’t the girls worry about their next show with all that back-combing and setting? “Well,” Laurent told us with a smile. “I plan to be out of here by then!” Quite. That’s showbiz.
But if William Okpo was a raucous night out at The Box, Belstaff was tea at The Pierre. Faces were nude to not distract from the bondage belts (we are sure The Pierre has seen a bit of that…) with center-parted loosely worn hair.
More strong brows were seen at Brandon Sun with a look created by Elizabeth Arden. Strong bold eyeshades created with Elizabeth Arden Beautiful Color Eye Shadow in Shimmering Copper, Bellini, and Truffle complemented the brows. Hair was tied in a messy bun that was gorgeous, young, flighty, and fun—and also can be worn by all ages as it lifts the face.
Nars at Philip Lim was all about the return of the lip liner, an objet de beauté we thought had gone the way of toner, metal blackhead removers, and AHAs. Lead Nars artist Francelle Daly went for a strong lip in Kenya Lip Liner pencil worn all over and highlighted with the Mambo Eyeliner Pencil used as a lip liner—yes, Around The Lip!
We are not going into the politics of Oscar de la Renta and John Galliano, we have our own views, but this is a beauty blog. As we sat frankly mesmerized by the collection, our eyes were drawn to the strong, pinky-coral lips that were simply gorgeous. When it came to the fashions, dark brown eyes and gothic lips contrasted with the classic pink, green, and purple gowns. Don’t ask us how, but somehow it worked.
New York Fashion Week was just fab, of course, and we walked away with many tips. Here is what we learned
- To shape our brows like Frieda, or more realistically Brooke;
- To dig up long forgotten lip-liners (Bobbi Brown is having palpitations over that somewhere…);
- To embrace poodle chic;
- To let emoji’s on our finger-tips rule our mood;
- And finally, to not attempt to shout over the drilling of the set builders. This has resulted in a new condition: Fashion Week Voice; we will use our finger-tip emoji’s to communicate instead. Smiley face.