San Francisco-based dermatologist Richard G. Glogau, MD, is used to being referred to as a guru. In fact, his popular beauty blog is called “The Wrinkle Guru” and on it, he offers all sorts of tips and techniques for banishing frown lines, crow’s feet, and other facial furrows. He also takes on sun damage, spider veins, toxic lipstick, and much, much more in this timely and comprehensive resource.
Glogau, also a clinical professor of dermatology and director of the post-doctoral fellowship in Cosmetic Dermatologic Surgery at the University of California San Francisco, also earned guru status when he developed the Glogau Wrinkle Scale. This scale helps doctors reliably assess facial aging, and better pair treatments to skin type. It is so well received that Neutrogena has chosen to use it in the development of their Healthy Skin and Anti-aging product lines.
Glogau spoke to Beauty in the Bag about his practice and his philosophies on treating the aging face.
Here’s what he had to say:
How do you define beauty?
Beauty is often a reflection of a person’s “outside” and “inside.” I am always impressed by how feeling good about one’s “outside” usually leads to better feelings about one’s “inside.”
How do you treat the aging face?
By replacing the lost volumes and softening the dynamic lines of expression. The goal is to restore one’s natural appearance, not change them into something that they are not.
Why do you love what you do?
It is great fun to make those years roll back. You can see first hand the impact that these things can have on a person’s self-esteem and confidence. Besides, it is a field that is constantly changing, always new techniques and products, never boring.
How did you get started in the beauty business?
I have been interested in the management of aging skin and the human appearance from the beginning of my training in dermatology. Professionally speaking, I have watched the whole progression of dermatology into the aesthetic business from the beginning.
What sets you apart from others in your space?
I have been training dermatologists in aesthetic techniques for many years, and helped define a scale for aging of the face known as the Glogau Wrinkle Scale, which has been widely adopted in cosmetic dermatology and plastic surgery to treat the aging face.
Speaking of which, tell us more about the Glogau Wrinkle Scale?
This scale is used to objectively measure how, where and why your skin is aging. It is widely used by dermatologists and plastic surgeons to better pair treatments with skin type, and maximize results. Neutrogena has even chosen to use it in the development of their Healthy Skin and Anti-aging product lines. According to the Glogau Classification of Photoaging, Group I shows mild signs of photoaging such as pigment changes, no keratosis, minimal wrinkles, around 28 t0 35 years old, and wears minimal to no makeup. For these patients, treatment focuses on preventing or slowing the signs of aging and includes the judicious use of sunscreen.
Who is your beauty inspiration?
I am fascinated by sculptors of the Renaissance whose mastery of light and shadow in the human face show us how changes in facial volume are related to the aging appearance.
What is your beauty mantra?
Keep it natural! No one should be able to tell.
What do you find most challenging about your job?
Educating patients about reasonable aesthetic expectations.
What charities do you support?
My wife and I are founders of the Glogau Teddy Bear Rescue Fund, for the benefit of children and their families at the UCSF Benioff Children’s Hospital. The fund provides emergency financial support for a host of needs that are not covered by third-party payers.