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RAZOR SHARP

Photo Credit: beautyinthebag.com

Posted by 09.09.14

Shaving your legs daily is a non-negotiable beauty ritual in the summer, but even in the winter despite the reduced chance of showing off your bare legs. And with shaving comes a set of questions: How should I shave to avoid nicks and cuts? How often should I shave? What are the best razors to use?

Dr Jody Levine

Lucky for us, celebrity dermatologist Dr. Jody Levine, who has a private practice on the Upper East Side of Manhattan, was there to answer our questions. Here are some of her tried and true insights for the perfect set of smooth legs!

What are the benefits of shaving over using an at-home hair removal gadget?

The benefits for shaving are that it is a quick and easy way to remove hair. It’s also virtually painless if you are using a high-quality razor like those from Gillette Venus, which are less likely to give you nicks and cuts. Regular shaving with the right product is also a great gentle form of exfoliation, which can help keep skin soft. Shaving manually removes the top layer of dead, dry skin cells, helping to reveal beautiful, smooth skin.

Gillette Venus Embrace Sensitive

How often should women shave?

I’d recommend shaving as often as you feel is necessary, as this depends on a variety of factors, including your genetics. Some women will find they want to shave every day, while others may only want to shave a few times a week. Find what works best for you and your skin.

What are the various Venus razors available out there?

There are a range of Venus razors out there to ensure you’ll find your perfect match. I’m personally a fan of the new Venus Embrace Sensitive Razor, which has five-blades for an ultra-close shave and Ribbons of Moisture and Lubrastrip to create a thick cushion between the razor and your skin. This reduces the chance of irritation. If you’re traveling or on-the-go the Venus Snap with Embrace is the perfect razor to drop in your bag.

What tips to make in between shave days last longer?

I would suggest using a high-quality razor with multiple blades, like the Venus Embrace Sensitive Razor, which cuts the hair very close to the skin surface. A close shave should translate into it taking longer for the hair to grow back helping your shave last longer. It’s also important to moisturize right after you shower this will keep your skin smooth and soft in between shaving.

 

 

 


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MEET DR. CARL THORNFELDT: DERMATOLOGIST & FOUNDER OF EPIONCE SKIN CARE

Posted by 08.10.14

Thirty years of practice has led Idaho-dermatologist Carl Thornfeldt, MD, to a conclusion about skin disease and aging: much of it can be attributed to the breakdown of the skin’s natural barrier function and chronic inflammation. He treats skin disease with prescriptions but for obtaining maximum skin health he focuses on rebuilding the barrier function. Enter, Epionce, the skin care system that Thornfeldt created to repair the barrier and fight inflammation. The comprehensive range is infused with botanicals and can be customized to address a variety of conditions, including acne, eczema, hyperpigmentation, psoriasis, rosacea, and, of course, skin aging. Here, Thornfeldt tells  Beauty in the Bag about his professional background and his insights into maintaining healthy, youthful skin.

www.epionce.com

Please tell us about your background. Why did you choose dermatology as your specialty?

I have struggled with dermatitis since I was a child. When I was a teenager, there were very few options available for treating dermatitis. The most common therapies were tar and sulfur being applied to the skin. It was a very challenging time for me and dramatically impacted me. I vowed I would grow up and try to find a better way to help people like me.

As a physician, how do you describe healthy skin?

I describe healthy skin as skin that has proper function and structure—the way it was originally intended to be. After all, the skin’s natural number one purpose is to interface between the dry air environment and our fluid filled body. If this barrier does not function properly, skin diseases occur. When the skin is healthy, other things we describe as “problem skin” tend to go away.

What inspired you to create and launch Epionce? How does it differ from other skin care lines?

I was inspired to create Epionce because I wanted something better for my patients. When I started as a physician, it was hard to help my patients get completely clear and maintain remission of their skin disease because so many of the prescription products adversely affected the skin barrier, really hindering their quality of life. Over time patients would rather just deal with the disease state than manage the medical options that have been available. This led me on a quest to answer the question—if we could optimize the structure and function of the skin, can we prevent skin disease and skin aging? Due to the complexity of the multiple processes we see as damaged skin, unique botanical ingredients were formulated to reverse these processes. Ultimately, to have products that improve skin is what led to Epionce. When I gave samples to my patients to try for their skin diseases, months later they came back asking for the “wrinkle” cream. We realized that Epionce was not only for diseases and conditions, but also anti-aging. We confirmed what Dr. Albert Kligman first published in 1988 that inflammation is critical in driving skin aging.

To my knowledge, no other skin care line addresses the underlying causes of how the damaged skin barrier and chronic inflammation contributes to skin disease, various conditions, and aging the way that Epionce does. We use a blend of unique botanical ingredients that work synergistically to reverse the abnormalities and to provide optimum therapeutic benefit to the skin. Then we did what no one was doing at the time—we started doing clinical studies against market leaders, including prescription products.

Can damaged skin really be repaired? What ingredients are effective in fighting signs of age?

Because of the world we live in, our skin will continually be exposed to things that will cause damage to the skin. So, while the skin absolutely can be repaired, it does require regular attention to continue the repair process.

The premise behind Epionce is that signs of aging are triggered and driven by both a damaged skin barrier and chronic inflammation in the skin. So, Epionce uses a variety of botanical ingredients delivered at therapeutic concentrations to specific skin cells to address both of those issues. Some of the ingredients we use that help repair the skin barrier are avocado, safflower, meadowfoam, and quercetin. Some of the ingredients that help stop chronic inflammation are date, apple, flax, and rosa canina.

Are there any new skin care technologies on the horizon that you find particularly promising?

I’m intrigued with some of the new research on proteonomics, metabolomics, and glyconomics. The theory seems good, but of course I will want to see the blinded clinical trial data with statistical significance of the finished product before coming to any conclusions about the use of that technology in skin care. Too often there is a lot of hype or buzz before enough research has been done. Many people have spent money on products that make promises based on theories that don’t pan out. That is why I fought so hard for Epionce to have conclusive clinical studies so I can say with confidence to my patients that they will see results, and it’s not just a fad.

What’s next for Epionce?

There is a lot of ongoing research into the functionality of the skin, and how to optimize it. We are always looking at ways that we might be able to improve how our products impact the skin for maximum therapeutic value. I always say, my patients never come in asking to get 40% clear from their disease or condition; they come in asking for 100% clearance and they want to stay clear. I am always pushing myself and my team to reach for that.


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MEET MICHAEL TAYLOR, MD: FOUNDER OF OCEAN ELEMENTS

Posted by 08.03.14

As a medical and surgical dermatologist practicing in Portland, Maine, Michael Taylor, MD, MPH, was well aware of the prevalence of skin cancer and the risks that sun exposure pose to healthy skin. While doing free skin cancer screenings for Maine fisherman, he discovered that seaweed harvesters have utterly smooth and youthful hands compared to fisherman and lobstermen. This led to the investigation of the benefits of other marine plants and ultimately the creation of Ocean Elements, a science-based skin care line. With a focus on sun protection, the first product that Ocean Elements launched is called Sheer Daily Moisture SPF 30, formulated with five marine ingredients and physical sunblocks, the least irritating kind. On the cusp of rolling out a night cream, Dr. Taylor tells Beauty in the Bag about his background and inspiration for creating Ocean Elements.

www.oelements.com

Please tell us about your background. How did you transition from a practicing dermatologist to a skin care developer?

As a practicing dermatologist for more than 30 years, I was aware every day of the increase in skin cancers of every kind at every age. Public knowledge about the risk of sun damage is widespread and 100s of sunscreens are available, many of them very effective. Yet, few people protect themselves on a regular basis. There are several reasons for this disconnect, including differences in the “feel” of the sunscreen, color, odor, water resistance, irritation, allergic reactions, the use of damaging chemicals including PABA, parabens, and phthalates, the risks associated with chemical sunscreens, concern about nano-particles, stinging of the eyes, inhaling of sprays, cost, and on and on. Educating people about the benefits of sun protection is sort of like educating children about brushing their teeth, then giving them a fine toothbrush, and telling them to brush their teeth with pickle-juice. Or like touting the benefits of flossing twice a day which nobody really does.

As well as educating patients and the public, we needed to develop an effective sunscreen that felt good enough for people to use on a regular basis. We were fortunate to learn, during an annual American Academy of Dermatology skin cancer screening, that the harvesters of the Maine seaweed laminaria digitata have moist and smooth hands from handling the seaweed. That led to an investigation of other marine plants that might also provide photoprotection, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, and moisturizers. We were able to develop a moisturizer that incorporates five ingredients from the ocean that feels great, so it will be used, protects with a broad spectrum SPF of 30, and restores with antioxidants and nutrients.

So, the transition in my profession of dermatology has been a shift to education and prevention rather than treatment.

As a physician, what characteristics comprise healthy skin for you?

We believe that “healthy skin is beautiful skin,” so the two are paired. It’s easier to describe what comprises “unhealthy” skin—blotchy, uneven, discolored, sallow, tanned, wrinkly, sagging, spotty, veiny, thin, dry, and bruised.  Healthy skin, adjusted for age, looks like the skin on your bottom—even toned, pale, firm and not thin, well hydrated, smooth, elastic, without bruises or surface veins. Sure there may be a little sagging due to changes in weight over the years, but the skin is still intact.

Although many people who seek cosmetic treatments might disagree with us, dermatologists accept skin that ages with the individual to be normal. It is not abnormal.  This includes changes that we would not prefer and which can be helped by moisturization and protection in particular. Older skin becomes thinner and the barrier function—holding water in and toxins out—diminishes. This decay in function can and should be easily helped.

What causes unhealthy skin is primarily sun damage—all of the characteristics of “unhealthy skin” noted in paragraph one above are caused by too much sun. Add to that the significant risk of developing skin cancers, and there are good reasons dermatologists jump up and down telling their patients to protect themselves against sun damage.

Interestingly, a recent study divided teenaged girls into two groups. One group looked at a film of the premature “aging” effects of sun damage that the other group looked at a film showing the risks of skin cancer from sun damage. Guess which group changed their behavior, limiting their sun exposure. You guessed it, the group that saw the one on “aging.” The one on skin cancer hardly changed behavior at all.

What inspired you to launch Ocean Elements: And how is it different from other brands on the market?

Ocean Elements includes five marine ingredients that protect, moisturize, and restore.  Although, a few other topical products contain marine ingredients, no other moisturizer contains all five and few effective moisturizers for daily use have a broad spectrum SPF of 30. Ocean Elements is as natural as we could make it using only physical sunscreens. zinc and titanium. We use no chemical sunscreens that can be toxic, sensitizing, and endocrine disruptors. Ocean Elements is safe for the whole family, water resistant to 80 minutes, fragrance free, non-irritating, non-sensitizing, packaged in recycled and biodegradable materials, and PABA, paraben, and phthalate free. It does not sting the eyes, so kids don’t kick and scream. It is quite unique.

Where do you stand on the vitamin D question? If we protect our skin 24/7 from the sun, how can we generate enough vitamin D.

I stand on the side of truth and justice and the American Way when it comes to vitamin D.

Wouldn’t it be wonderful if we could get a tiny fraction of our patients, even those who have had skin cancers including melanoma, to protect themselves 24/7 from significant sun exposure? This is as unrealistic as having all Americans floss twice a day. So, let’s set the “24/7” straw man that is often brought up by the vitamin D advocates to argue in favor of sun exposure.

What is also true is that many of us who live in the northern regions of Europe, Asia, and North America have lower than normal levels of vitamin D when we are tested.  This occurs especially during the three seasons of the year when we don’t have enough background sunlight to generate adequate amounts of vitamin D—with or without sunscreen. I take 1000 IU of vitamin D3 every day and recommend it to all of my friends and patients. Why argue over an issue that is so easy and safe to resolve?

Having to reapply sunscreen every two hours really keeps some people from adequate protection. Why hasn’t a long-term sunscreen been developed?

Wonderful question. It has been developed! It is called clothing!

There are many manufacturers of very effective sun protective clothing for children and adults. I highly recommend using sun protective clothing when outside and do so myself. You can leave it on all day, in or out of the water. It is safer, more effective, and less expensive than sunscreen. And while you’re at it, wear a broad brimmed hat and sunglasses.

Now, on the scientific and more serious answer to the question, it can be worn off. I have a good friend who is a surfer. The abrasive saltwater, clothing, and board rub his sunscreen off so that he has to reapply at least every hour. It has become part of his routine. The other reason is a biologic one. Our skin is constantly shedding—in fact we replace our outer layer (the epidermis) every 28 days. It doesn’t stop the process just because we have applied a lotion or a sunscreen on the surface.  It is normal for our skin to shed the outer layers along with the sunscreen.  This is one of the several challenges to using sunscreens.

What’s next for Ocean Elements?

Thanks for asking. We are well into the process of developing a restorative and rejuvenating night cream that will be effective in repair and anti-aging. This is being developed in collaboration with Bob Verdicchio of Verdi Enterprises in New Jersey and will be tested for effectiveness by Dr. Peter Elias at his laboratories in San Francisco.  As well as antioxidants and anti-inflammatories, it will have retinol, which is to be avoided in the use of sunscreens because of potential phototoxicity, but is important for anti-aging and restoration. It is heavy in liposomes, has a pH that matches the skin’s, has ceramides, and improves the barrier function of the skin. It is going to be a great complement to Ocean Elements Daily Moisture SPF 30 daytime products.


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