Seeds from the Argan tree. Photo courtesy of www.kahina-givingbeauty.com.

Social responsibility and luxury meet as cosmetics brands incorporate a formerly little known oil into prestige hair and face products. Native to southwestern Morocco, organic argan oil–rich in vitamin E, essential fatty acids and antioxidants–works to fight signs of aging and soften skin and hair. It’s been used for generations by Berber women of rural Morocco for cooking but also to combat the effects of dry desert air on their skin. And these very same women benefit from its current popularity. By law, only they are permitted to extract the oil from argan tree seeds, a labor intensive process. In 2002, the Moroccan government established female cooperatives to manufacture argan oil, which not only provide financial and social independence for these women, but also offer literacy and other educational programs.

Kahina – Giving Beauty

Photo courtesy of Kahina - Giving Beauty.

“These women can’t even write their own names, yet they product the most amazing product. It occurred to me that I could help them with creating a skin-care line that really works and that women can feel good about buying,” stated Katharine L’Heureux, who founded Kahina – Giving Beauty in 2009.

The Kahina lineup comprises a cleanser, a face serum, an eye serum and a lotion as well as two bottle sizes of pure unadulterated oil, 1 oz. ($32) and 3.3 oz. ($72). “Argan oil works wonders on dry skin, but what’s surprising is that it actually has a balancing effect and antibacterial properties, which make it great for oily and acneic skin as well,”stated Ms. L’Heureux.

Kahina – Giving Beauty can be purchased at www.kahina-givingbeauty.com and select retailers such as Fred Segal in Los Angeles, ABC Home in New York City and International Orange in San Francisco. As part of the company’s social commitment, Ms. L’Heureux has pledged 25% of the profits from the Kahina products to the women of the cooperatives. The first project slated is building a new preschool.

Moroccanoil

Photo courtesy of Moroccanoil.

Since its debut nearly two and a half years ago, Moroccanoil, a pioneer of luxury argan-oil infused products, has become a runaway hit among fashion and beauty insiders, generating a cult following among editorial, fashion, celebrity, film and television stylists and their A-list clients.

Its hair care and styling products are known for their weightless quality and formulations rich in vitamins and natural elements that fortify and strengthen as well as protect the hair against environmental aggressors.

Available exclusively at salons, the Moroccanoil lineup now features nine products including the original Moroccanoil Treatment ($39). Roughly priced between $19 and $39, the range includes a styling cream, curl cream, glimmer shine spray, hydrating mask, restorative mask, repair shampoo, repair conditioner and a new luminous hair spray. Visit www.moroccanoil.com for salons that carry the Moroccanoil treatments.

Josie Maran Cosmetics

Photo courtesy of Josie Maran Cosmetics.

Growing up in a bohemian family in Northern California, Josie Maran’s experience with makeup was non-existent–that is until she became a top model. She discovered argan oil while working on a photo shoot in the south of France, when an older woman with glowing, beautiful skin revealed her beauty secret. When Josie launched her eponymous skin care and makeup line in 2006, she knew she had to include this organic wonder ingredient.

“For morning and night, Argan Oil is my favorite moisturizer for skin, hair and nails,” Ms. Maran stated. “Our Argan Oil, housed in a recyclable glass bottle, is purchased from women’s cooperatives in Morocco thereby supporting their social and economic welfare. These cooperatives also work within a UNESCO biosphere reserve, which ensures the protection and reforestation of argan trees.”

The Josie Maran Cosmetics line now includes more than 25 skin-care, makeup and hair-care products, priced from $12 to $52. According to Josie, her Argan Oil ($48) is a customer favorite, and inspired her to create the Argan Oil Moisturizing Stick ($22), which provides on-the-go spot hydration. Josie Maran Cosmetics are available at Sephora and www.josiemarancosmetics.com.

Kaé

Photo courtesy of www.kaetherapy.com.

Kaé is a 100% natural brand from France that combines the restorative powers of argan oil with other essential oils in a range of luxurious age-delaying products. In addition to fighting the signs of age, Kaé contends that argan oil can help reduce the appearance of burns, scars and stretch marks. As with many other argan lines, Kaé’s number one bestseller is its pure argan oil, called L’Huile de Beauté ($46). The brand offers products for face, body and hair, as well as a professional line used by estheticians. Visit www.kaetherapy.com for purchase information.

An Essential Ingredient

Even brands not based on the power of argan oil recognize its restorative and healing benefits. Horst Rechelbacher, the founder of Aveda, incorporates argan oil into his Intelligent Nutrients brand. Pangea Organics uses it in Nigerian Ginger, Sweet Lavender & Thyme Facial Cream ($36); Guerlain lists argan oil as an ingredient in its Terracotta Sunless Luxurious Self Tanning Balm ($50); and Laura Mercier includes it in Flawless Skin Day Crème SPF 15 ($95). Check out some of the brands mentioned above and discover why argan oil is commonly referred to as “The Gold of Morocco.”

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Mineral Makeup Lines Abound with Claims of Health and Beauty Benefits

We’re in the midst of a mineral revolution, mineral makeup that is, and it appears there is no end in sight. What started as a small trend in counter culture San Francisco in the mid-1970s, has turned into a mega-money maker. To wit, Bare Escentuals, the category’s market leader with its BareMinerals brand, is being purchased by Shiseido, Japan’s BIGGEST cosmetics company, for a whopping $1.7 million. And believe you me, the success of Bare Escentuals has not gone unnoticed, from the feting of Leslie Blodgett, the company’s guiding CEO, by the cosmetics industry and Wall Street, to the provocation of a gaggle of new lines and products boasting natural, healing and protective claims.

There is even a battle of the founding mothers. Diane Ranger, founder of Colorescience Pro, calls herself “the mother of mineral makeup,” having created Bare Escentuals in 1976, but leaving the company before Leslie Blodgett joined in 1994 and changed the course of makeup history.

So what’s the fuss all about, I wondered, as I began to investigate mineral-based cosmetics? At its best, the mineral lines infuse natural ingredients from the earth like zinc, iron oxides, mica, liquid crystal and pearl powder with beneficial actives like hyaluronic and salicylic acid, peptides and antioxidants. At its worse, the term “mineral” is nothing but a marketing ploy whereby companies add a few minerals to conventional formulas that contain red flag ingredients like paraben, mineral oil, talc, alcohol and preservatives. (For an analysis of mineral makeup’s health benefit claims, visit www.webmd.com.)

In the meantime, let’s take a look at what’s happening with the leading and forward thinking mineral makeup brands.

BareMinerals

Photo credit: www.bareescentuals.com

Not merely a commercial success, BareMinerals from Bare Escentuals has garnered more than a dozen magazine awards in the last four years, including the Allure Reader’s Choice Award for Best Foundation each year from 2006 to 2009. That’s best overall foundation, not just mineral. It’s BareMinerals SPF 15 Foundation ($25) continues to be a bestseller as does BareMinerals Matte SPF 15 Foundation ($28). Furthermore, the company claims its product is so pure, you can sleep in it. Available at Sephora, Ulta and specialty stores, additional retailers can be found at www.barescentuals.com.

Colorescience Pro

Photo credit: www.dermstore.com

Diane Ranger revisited her original first love, loose mineral makeup, and established Colorescience Pro in 2000. Her healthy makeup approach gets a heads up from the dermatologists and plastic surgeons who carry the brand in addition to day spas, resorts and makeup artists’ studios. The range encompasses face, eye, lip and sun protection products. Sunforgettable ($50), a brush on clear, powder sunscreen with SPF 30 is the cornerstone of the company’s larger campaign against skin cancer. Colorescience’s commitment to the medial esthetic market continues with Colorescience Corrector Kit ($50), a camouflage system for skin discoloration and scars.

BeingTrue

Photo credit: www.beingtrue.com

Established in 2004, the San Francisco-based BeingTrue offers performance-oriented products that deliver both wellness sensibilities and dermatological results. Sold at over 600 luxury resorts, day spas and salons, as well as www.beingtrue.com, the color cosmetics products combine mineral pigments and essential oils with antioxidant Idebenone, an anti-aging molecule that reduces the appearance of fine lines, hyper pigmentation and inflammation, in addition to brightening the skin. Recent launches include: BeingTrue Protective Illuminating Concealer ($30), a three-pan customizable system; BeingTrue Interference Color Rich Shadow ($16), a paraben-free eye-shadow formula that includes anti-aging benefits; and BeingTrue The Kit ($75), a foundation perfecting system.

GlōMinerals

Photo credit: gloskincare.com

Using the tagline, “skin nurturing makeup for beauty with a higher purpose,” GlōMinerals was formulated for skin-care professionals, including dermatologists and plastic surgeons. The products combine pharmaceutical grade, triple-milled, high pigment minerals, and vitamins A, C and E in formulations that provide broad spectrum UV protection. New spring launches include GlōMetallic Smoky Eye Kit ($32), GlōWater Resistant Mascara ($19.50) and GlōRedness Relief Powder ($25). GlōMinerals products are available at salons, spas and doctor offices as well as www.gloskincare.com.

Susan Posnick

Photo credit: www.susanposnick.com

After perfecting the appearance of models and celebrities during her 20-year career, makeup artist Susan Posnick faced her own challenge—skin cancer. Switching focus in 1999, Susan developed Colorflo ($64) mineral makeup, a foundation with substantial sun protection—SPF 26—that has a light feel and does not melt off in the heat. The sun protection comes from micronized titanium dioxide and micronized zinc oxide. The range now includes lip color, mascara, correcting pencils, eye color and cheek color. Visit www.susanposnick.com for retail information.

Clinique

Photo credit: Clinique

Minerals have been used in a variety of Clinique products since the brand’s inception. In fact, Blended Face Powder ($19), which launched the very same year the brand debuted, contains minerals. This past September, responding to the growing popularity of loose powders, Clinique Superbalanced Powder Makeup SPF 15 Mineral Rich Formula ($32.50) was introduced. Formulated to retain moisture balance but also absorb oil, the powder starts out in a compressed form, but via a compact “shaver” it is transformed into loose powder for application. Available at department stores and www.clinque.com.

Jane Iredale

Photo credit: www.janeiredale.com

As a film, theater and television casting director and producer, Jane Iredale worked intimately with women whose careers depended on clear complexions. In 2004, she formed her cosmetics company to provide makeup that would aid the health of the skin by being talc and paraben free, anti-inflammatory and suitable for use with acne or rosacea. New launches include The Starter Kit ($79), which features five products and three brushes in a two layered jewel box, and Artists’ Eyes II ($96), a palette of six eye-color shades. Visit www.janeiredale.com for spas, pharmacies and doctors that sell the brand.

Mining for Minerals

We live in explosive times, and that includes an explosion of mineral-based makeup lines. The above is just a sampling. Other lines to check out are Pür Minerals, Monavé, Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics and Sheer Cover as well as introductions from L’Oréal and Neutrogena. You decide if the madness is fact or fiction.

* Select products were gifted for this story.

Baby Bee Dusting Powder by Burt’s Bees, is Phthalate- and paraben-free, Photo Credit: www.burtsbees.com

In recent years parabens have become a hot-button issue in the beauty world.  But what are they and what’s the big deal?  Here’s the lowdown.

What are parabens?  Synthetic parabens are used to maximize shelf life and kill microorganisms in makeup, skin, hair, and body care products. Parabens are made from ethyl, propyl, methyl, and butyl. 

Why care?  Scientific studies have shown that parabens can mimic estrogen and act as endocrine disruptors.  Rare cases of allergies and hypersensitivity have been reported, and there are debates in progress concerning a possible link between parabens and cancer.  The waters got very muddy when emails started circulating linking aluminum in antiperspirants and breast cancer.  The American Cancer Society issued a very informative press release in 2009 indicating that there is no scientific data to support this purported connection. 

While the FDA does not regulate cosmetics ingredients, it has issued some useful information on its website.  Of note, combining different parabens in a single product allows for lower levels with greater preservative efficacy.  A mid-80s study by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) concluded that parabens were safe at levels up to 25%.  Most products contain levels of 0.01-0.3%.  When the CIR revisited those findings in 2005, the panel stood by the 1984 findings. 

What to do?  Whether or not to seek out paraben-free products is a personal and subjective choice.  If you have questions or concerns then your best bet is to talk to your physician, especially if you are trying to conceive, are pregnant or breastfeeding, or in the care of an endocrinologist.  While many companies are producing more paraben-free products, most manufacturers still do use parabens.  “Natural” does not always mean gentle, and some paraben-free products may use other anti-bacterial ingredients that can be highly allergenic or irritating.  Trickier still, organic does not necessarily mean paraben-free, and the fact remains that some of the best, most effective products on the market do contain parabens.  If you do decide to replace some of your old standards with paraben-free alternatives, here are some good starting points. 

Paraben-free products for you and your family

For hair care, check out options from Wen, Phyto, Giovanni, Korres, and Aubrey.  Paraben-free body care lines include 100% Pure, Yes to Carrots, Weleda, and Canyon Ranch Your Transformation.  For skin care, many products from La Roche-Posay, Sonya Dakar, Caudalie, Alba, and Boscia are formulated without parabens.  Everyday Minerals, Jane Iredale, and Tarte all offer paraben-free cosmetics. 

When it comes to kids, their skin and hair care needs are simpler than mama’s, and there is no shortage of wonderful paraben-free lines for them.  For little ones with allergies or skin conditions like eczema, it makes good sense to go for simple, natural products with minimal irritants.  In 2005, California Baby responded to consumer demand by removing parabens from all of their products.  Burt’s Bees Baby Bee and Method Baby are wonderful, affordable options for paraben-free baby care, from shampoo to diaper cream.  

Market trends suggest that more and more beauty brands will be turning out paraben-free options at all price points.  Look to credible news sources for the most recent information on parabens and count on the Bag Ladies to fill you in on the latest and greatest products.